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The next weekend after Hakone, on Friday after work we took the shinkansen from Tokyo. The first night was uneventful, we were tired and went straight to our accommodation by taxi since it’s already quite late at night.

The next morning, it all began. Turns out the neighbourhood we stayed was Gion, the famous geisha area and touristy spot. Sakura was blooming everywhere, it was so serene and beautiful, we saw few other people… the city was still asleep. We had a very good feeling about this.


We started a little early to beat other tourists. Since it was during cherry blossom / sakura / hanami season, there were bound to be loads of other people there, so we dedicated our top lists for early morning.

Arashiyama

Our first stop was Arashiyama bamboo forest. The bamboos started quite sparse, but became denser as we gradually walked in… It was otherworldly. Such a contemplative place (only if there were fewer people…).



It was not exactly planned but we dropped by the nearby temple Tenryu-ji, which had a beautiful Japanese garden and lake. With loads of sakura, of course.

 
It calmed the soul.


A real life zen garden! Bigger than 30cm x 30cm! So neat and tidy and perfect.


Kinkakuji

Then we went to Kinkakuji / The Golden Temple. It was around noon by then and of course there were already loads of people. It's a beautiful, picturesque, and insta-worthy temple, unfortunately a place where the enjoyment was spoilt simply by having too many tourists. Note that you won't be allowed to get into the temple itself.



Still, I witnessed a serene moment of a gardener tending her garden, away from the crowd.



Nishiki market

So bustling and full of life and inviting! We had so much random snacks including warabi mochi, and even unexpectedly running into familiar faces from Sydney / Jakarta! Unfortunately I forgot to take any good photos here (too busy sightseeing + eating).

Gion

Simply strolling around the famous cultural neighbourhood, old wooden buildings, narrow alleys by the river, slowly enjoying the blooming mankai (full bloom) sakura trees all around us. This is the real charm of Kyoto.


Absolutely gorgeous. Even Japanese people themselves can't stop taking pictures every year; we understand why. 


In the evening, we went to Gion corner, a Japanese Culture 101 show where they showcased several traditional Japanese cultural highlights such as the tea ceremony, ikebana (flower arrangement), a puppet show, traditional court music, and a traditional comedic skit.


The puppet show was a stand out, a little eerie but enchanting.


And of course the maiko / apprentice geisha dance, in their best demure pouts and small movements.


Fushimi Inari


Another early start to the famous Fushimi Inari Taisha the next morning, again, to beat the crowd. It was a beautiful complex, with proud Oinari fox guards.

It will take about 1 hour to complete the hiking course.


The rows of red torii gates were indeed worth the hype. Beautiful, bright and vivid; picturesque and a pleasant walking experience. 



Walk far enough and wait patiently to get pictures sans the crowd.


And then, our Kyoto weekend was over; it’s time to return to Tokyo.

Places we visited

  • Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
  • Tenryu-ji
  • Kinkakuji
  • Fushimi Inari Taisha
  • Gion
  • Nishiki Market
We missed Kiyomizu Dera in this trip, but I also highly recommend this temple!

Tips

  • If there are 4 of you travelling, you could consider taking a cab to get around. Kyoto isn't that big a city, so splitting the cost wouldn't be astronomical and you could save considerable sight-seeing time. 
  • Of course public transport is still the most economical. The system is tourist friendly and the city bus provides a good coverage; Kyoto bus and subway pass is of good value. You can find more info here.
  • Kyoto during cherry blossom / sakura season is amazing, but the sakura season is unpredictable and very short. Another season that's more forgiving because it lasts longer and therefore easier to plan is to travel during the gorgeous autumn leaves / kouyou season. On both seasons, expect lots and lots of tourists though.
  • Take your time and don't hurry. Savour the moment, rather than quickly ticking temple after temple off the touristy list. In my opinion, Kyoto is best enjoyed with a quiet, serene, zen mentality. 
  • Do early mornings do beat the crowd where possible.
I love Kyoto. I looove Kyoto! It’s choke-full of beauty, traditional architecture and culture. Of course it’s doubly amazing with the fact that we were there right at the peak of hanami season.  Yes, there were lots of tourists, but for good reason.

Til next time, Kyoto!
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One month after I arrived in Japan, my family came over to make sure I was still alive and well (of course), and so our first holiday in Japan began. We decided to go to Hakone one weekend, and Kyoto on another. It felt like Inception, a holiday within a holiday since I wasn’t settled yet in Japan!


We took Odakyu Romance Car train straight to Hakone Yumoto, and  couldn’t resist buying cute things with train-shaped packaging. The bigger train was the Romance Car bento which was not really good value for money food-wise; but it was really for the cute train-shaped container, which reincarnates as a planter and now sits in my room. The smaller paper train contained two dainty, delicious cakes.


Hakone-yumoto

Hakone-yumoto was a quaint little place with bustling main street, many tourists, and beautiful mountainous backdrop. It instantly set our holiday mood. We spent a little time strolling around this town leisurely, dropping by for souvenirs, lunch, and snacks.


A delicious mushroom dish, it was very refreshing, tasty yet clean!


It looked intriguing, so I decided to try this Yamakake soba dish, topped with a strange white-ish foam. Google search later revealed that it was grated yam. Wasn’t a big fan of the taste nor texture, but apparently it was very nutritious.


Lake Ashi cruise

It was seriously beautiful like a painting, with blue sky and the fresh spring air around us.


Mount Fuji was supposed to be visible at this spot, proudly standing between that faraway hill and the lush tree-covered land, as a backdrop to this picturesque torii gate. Sadly, it was covered by clouds. Indeed we have to be double lucky to see Fuji-san from Lake Ashi as the sky has to be clear both around Lake Ashi and around Fuji-san itself.


Our unnecessarily gallant looking cruise ferry :)


Ryokan Stay

The highlight of this Hakone visit was of course, our first time ever stay in ryokan (Japanese traditional hotel). We stayed at Shinanoki Ichinoyu. Once we entered the room, we regretted not coming there right after check in time.


The tatami floor, the mattresses and futons… the Japan-ness of the whole experience continued to overwhelm. There was a private open-air onsen in the room, overlooking a small garden. The water was so inviting and the afternoon air so chilly… I wanted to get in right away but needed time to adjust to the hot water temperature, resulting in a few seconds of awkward half-squat pose. Afterwards, the feeling of soaking in hot spring and melting the day’s tiredness away, surrounded by wispy steam and breathing in crisp cold air… it was pure bliss. 


Inelegantly worn yukata by us foreigners. I belatedly realised it should be left over right! Sipping tea and eating sweet snacks, sitting down on the tatami floor. Overwhelmed with gratitude because life is beautiful. 



Dinner was pork shabu-shabu, which was served in the dining room, plus many little dishes I couldn’t name. It didn’t look much but we were so stuffed by the end! We had a bit of fun with people watching the other guests: mostly Japanese people who acted completely nonchalant and at ease. Most were couples, there were also a big family with an austere looking grandpa, and everyone clad in yukata.


Breakfast was this delightful rice and fish set. Again, we were completely stuffed. It was my first time tasting natto, which I completely dislike.


After enjoying private onsen for the last time, sadly it was time to check out.

The Little Prince Museum

The weather was drizzling so we decided to opt out of the Hakone Open Air Museum and went to the Little Prince Museum instead.

We went with no expectation but it was quite a pleasant experience. A serene and beautiful place, with many gardens, and European looking facades (indeed some of the buildings were facade only). I use to have the book as a kid but had forgotten the story, little did I know that Little Prince was big in Japan.


Then it was time to go back to Tokyo. Overall it was a low-key, pleasant trip with the highlight being our ryokan stay.

I didn’t do too many research on this trip because I was still figuring out “how to Japan”. But:

Some tips

  • We used the Odawara Free Pass which was an easy, non-fuss way to travel from Shinjuku. We took the Hakone Tozan bus quite a bit so having the pass was convenient.
  • I would go to Hakone Open Air museum the next time
  • I’m also curious to check out the Yunessun Spa Resort! We actually passed by this place without having any idea what it was. Then, a few months later I found out about the amusing flavoured spa baths (green tea, wine, etc) there. Next time!
Do stay tuned for the Kyoto report.
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About Me

I'm Alice. A learner, which means that I could be anything, really (except a sportsman. A sportsman I am not).

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