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The desert struggle (part I) made me reflect a while after. What motivates me? Why do I do things?

Sometimes we don't even think about why we do things; we do them out of habit or necessity. Sometimes, out of desperation and survival. Other times, because others like boss, teacher, parents, friends, told or expected us to.

I read this article titled "Why I Try Not To Do Things For Others, But For Myself Instead" by Gretchen Rubin, a candidly honest piece which contends that doing things for other people has a kind of a self-righteous air; which rewards the doer with a feeling of being generous and virtuous. It sometimes also bring a feeling of resentment. Why? Because, there is an underlying desire and expectation to be noticed and appreciated. When that desire is unmet, resentment builds up.

The article candidly points out our human limitations: not only we need each other, we also crave for self actualisation, acceptance and approval. We put commitment and hard work to perform, be recognised and rewarded, to fulfill others' and our own expectations. We look out for each other in social relationships in mutual needs for love, connection and acceptance.

In what I thought was my own "pure" desire to do good for others, upon digging deeper and being very honest, I often, grudgingly, found those exact selfish desires - very human. Aren't we such weak, limited, conditional beings? :)

But I’d like to contend that self will isn’t that powerful and mighty giant we often make it out to be. Admittedly self will and self motivation are very powerful, you feel like you’re riding the waves and on top of the world, like the world is your oyster and you’re rewarded by good feelings and good emotions. But they’re fickle too.

A friend once told me, "Feelings are like the weather. It changes over time". Like one of those new year resolutions to go to the gym or eat healthy, which often fails by February. I used to feel motivated and passionate about blogging. Now, this post has been sitting in draft for more than a year.

For things that require long commitment, when things get hard, when those wonderful feelings desert you; when you see no purpose, no meaning, no reward, no happiness, no end, just burden, toil and exhaustion like the barren desert,... Self will will fail and you’ll feel lost.


Is it possible to become detached from selfish desires and expectations, to do things for someone else, such as someone who relies on, puts hope in you, someone whom you love? Instead of being resentful, will it make you stronger?

Surely, even if limited, we too have the capacity for the unconditional? Surely, as parents toil in their jobs, as they change endless nappies and fold endless laundry; surely they don't just think about being all sacrificial or self righteous, how they want to be appreciated and rewarded? Surely, even though we are limited by our selfish desires and we often fall, fail, hurt each other and ourselves, we have the capacity to be selfless and give our lives away too?

By all means, I need to be very honest with my limitations. When my cup is empty, it needs to be filled before I can get up and start again. Set strong boundaries. Communicate my expectations (working on it. I find those incredibly hard).

Doing things for myself and for others don’t have to be mutually exclusive. When I'm exhausted of doing things for myself, especially something that seems pointless like climbing that sand hill... 

Surprisingly, counter-intuitively, sometimes, when self will fails, doing things for others makes you regain strength again. It refuels the self will that was empty.


It might even make you happy. 


One piece of truth I know for sure: if that day I climbed the sand dunes for myself, I would have already given up.
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It was on the sand dunes of Gobi desert that I experienced utter physical exhaustion for the first time. We were climbing tall sand dunes to enjoy sunset at the peak.

The climb was frustrating. With every step, the sand yielded and collapsed, reducing one step into half or a third of a step; so much wasted energy.

I saw that several other people already gave up and just sat or lied there on the sand. Many times I almost did myself, with my chest burning, desperate for breath, muscles protesting in pain. I regretted volunteering to take the two big water bottles because my backpack felt heavy like stones.

I had to stop, because my breathing and burning chest was screaming for rest and I simply could not go on anymore. I told Ave to go on and leave me alone; the view was already nice here.


I sat there admiring the view, taking a few snaps on my camera, catching my breath and slowly regaining strength but feeling conflicted, a part of me was ego and pride feeling abashed of giving up. The other part consoling myself that it is a holiday and I shouldn't take it too hard.

"It's ok right," I asked, "it is right to not be enslaved by ego and pride?"

"But would you try it for Me?" a gentle soft thought formed up.

Oh.

I sat pondering for a while, wondering if that voice came from myself or He who creates everything. It was very unlikely that I myself would come up with such a thing.


If one is asked that way (especially by someone gentle and kind), how could anyone say no? Well, a few steps wouldn't do any harm.

There I went, step after step, slowly, stripped of any pride, just a small resolve to go for the next, then the next step...

After what felt like a thousand little steps, I could actually started to see the peak, so close yet so far. The sand yielded with every step.

Then, eventually, I reached a point where I didn't need to climb on all fours and could stand up, with full view of the sands on both sides. I made it to the peak.


With my remaining strength I hobbled over to meet everyone; who clapped and cheered me on and patted my back. I just missed the sunset.


But oh boy, the view. Such glorious view. Cotton candy sky from firey yellow and orange to blue and grey, and the most magnificent is the pink sand ablaze, reflecting the dusk. I was glad. I was glad I listened to that always gentle Voice.

To be continued in Part II.
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This is part three of my Mongolian series, where I will share the cultural and culinary experiences of our short trip. First, the capital city.

Ulaanbaatar

Ulaanbaatar (UB) would likely be your entry and exit point of the country, from which your tour would start.

On our first night we stayed at Sunpath Hostel, a simple hostel owned by the tour operator themselves, located at a convenient walking distance to the centre of the city, Sukhbatar Square. Our private room was comfortable and spacious, the shared bathroom was passable, but the girl who worked there was so sweet and well-meaning, it was super affordable, and I like the lady boss.


According to Google, UB is nothing to write home about; but we did enjoy exploring the magnificent square on foot, sensed their esteem for Genghis Khan, and enjoyed the bold colours they use for their important buildings.


To my surprise, I found out from this article that during winter UB is the most polluted capital city in the world, due to the widespread use of coal stoves, the only heating source in the thousands of gers and self-built homes as the city struggles under over-migration, resulting in high rates of pneumonia and fetal mortality. The air feels ok in summer though.


One quessential cultural experience that shouldn't be missed when you're in town is Tumen Ekh, a high-spirited folk song and dance performance. Such an enjoyable experience: their exquisite bright and elaborate costumes, their nature-inspired galloping and energetic dances (one of their traditional guitars even could perfectly mimic a neighing horse!) and the strange yet captivating throat-singing.  

Photo taken from the Tumen Ekh website
Their folk costumes and music appears rather close to those of the neighbouring China. It's interesting to note that Korean pop culture is extremely popular here, and their contemporary music videos resemble K-pop too. Appearance-wise, their facial features are definitely East Asians, but on average they have bigger built than Chinese / Koreans. And of course their language sounds completely different from anything else I've heard. 

If time allowed, we would have gone to check out one of the museums in UB too!


Festivities to celebrate the upcoming Naadam festival, which we missed :( Excuse to visit Mongolia the second time!

Ongiin Khiid / Ongi Monastery

As part of the tour, we visited Онгийн хийд / Ongiin Khiid in Central Mongolia. It was one of the largest and most respected monasteries of Mongolia before its destruction in 1939 by communist authorities. Now, only the main gate has been restored with bits of ruins and remnants around it. There's a museum housing a collection of traditional religious objects and some architectural elements of the original monastery.


The monastery housed up to 1000 monks at its peak, I imagined it bustling with life, activities and prayers, in their richly vibrant red, yellow and green sanctuary.


Now the area is dominated by desert yellow and brown and felt quite desolate, save for a few local children playing, and a few adults managing the area. Efforts are being made by two former monks to restore the area. 



A small village in the desert

Once every 2 days or so, we'd stop by small villages in the desert for lunch and to buy supplies.  


Even in this village, the tap didn't have running water, it's just a sealed container.


An unexpected gift of shower on day 4! We felt giddy and unbelieving of our luck. The water was lukewarm and trickling, the public shower offered no towels nor soaps, nor it was especially clean, but the shower still was the highlight of the day. Cleanliness and hygiene did lift up the spirits.


Nomad lifestyle

A nomad family usually has a few gers; one for kitchen, one for living, one for bedroom. 


Dish-washing in basins, because there's no running water.


Electricity is scarce but available, with the power generator turned off at night. Some of our hosts  have solar panels too.


The nomad families are usually herders; they move 3-4 times a year so their livestock could graze. The families we visited also earned extra from camel / horse riding and hosting tourists like us.


Interacting with the animals and the gorgeous people.


I ponder about their simple life; their next door neighbour's probably at least 30 km away. So their overwhelmingly primary human interaction would be their family (they better get along!). 


This below is my favourite host. Thanks to him and his very hospitable family, it was the best ger stay out of our whole tour.


I asked our tour guide how they would meet other people. How would they date and marry? Her answer, "When they go to the market. When they go to school in the city, they meet people."


Nomad lifestyle is slowly dying in Mongolia as more and more people move to UB, attracted by the opportunities and city lifestyle.


Culinary

I am open-minded and always excited for authentic traditional cuisine, but what I can conclude from this trip is, Mongolia isn't exactly a culinary destination.

Our first meal in town was delicious barbecued lamb and giant-sized fried lamb dumplings called хуушуур - khuushuur.


A meal we had on the road. The lamb soup with potatoes, onions and carrots was hearty and tasty, and I wish I had a full meal of those. I usually love my dumplings but struggled as these dumplings (they are called бууз - buuz) are so... lamb-y. The sides were potato salad, carrots and cabbage.


During nomad ger visits, we're always served this goat milk tea. The milk tea was... salty. There were also little biscuits / crackers. 


Handmade stir-fried noodles with potatoes and lamb chunks. I think it's called цуйван- tsuivan.



Goat stew on rice. This was actually pretty good, the stew was soft and the goat-y smell was not overpowering at all. Do you notice a pattern here?


More бууз - buuz dumplings with goat / lamb fillings. The red stuff is not chili sauce, it's a kind of non-spicy tomato / salsa sauce, a typical condiment.  


The menu of a small restaurant. Since sometimes I use my spare time for unnecessary random stuff, with the help of google I did the translation of the menu below. Notice that they sell kimbap / Korean sushi!

  • хуушуур - khuushuur / meat dumplings
  • бууз - buuz / steamed meat dumplings
  • нийслэл салат - nijslel salat / potato salad
  • шинэ ногооны салат - shine nogoony salat / fresh vegetable salad
  • өндөгтэй цуйван - öndögtei tsuivan / egg noodles
  • гуляш - goulash
  • хиаман зууш - khiaman zuush / sausages
  • нарийн махан хуурга - narijn makhan khuurga / fine meat (small cuts / mince meat?!)
  • соустай бөөрөнхий мах - soustai böörönkhii makh / meatballs with sauce
  • кимбаб - kimbab / Korean sushi!
  • шарсан тахиа - sharsan takhia / fried chicken 
Waittttt.. fried chicken? Why the guide never told me there's fried chicken? I would've ordered that in a second!


Stir fried lamb / goat on rice, with potato salad, cabbage, tomatoes, cucumber, and white bread. This was not bad too.


Some more хуушуур - khuushuur fried dumplings, filled with lamb or vegetables.


A traditional meal for special occasions, cooked by our lovely nomad hosts: goat stew with potatoes, onions and carrots, cooked on hot stones. According to google, this is called Xopxoг - khorkhog.


Eaten with rice and heaps of salsa sauce. The stew was hearty and delicious.


As we headed closer to Ulaanbaatar, chicken appeared on the menu! Chicken! Hoorah for chicken! 


Honorable mention to our amazing tour guides (we went in tandem with another small group) who whipped up these tasty nutritious and balanced meals to alleviate our longing for non-Mongolian food: sandwiches, sausages, Korean chicken soup, French toasts, and spagbol (with goat meat).


Our last dinner at Ulaanbaatar after the tour ended. We badly craved some strong spices so we went for Indian. It was glorious.


Normal Western breakfast, so on our last day in Ulaanbaatar we treated ourselves in a starred hotel, just because. 


Tips / facts

  • Bring your own spicy condiments (Sambal Bawang Little Dragon comes to mind). Usually I frown upon tourists who can't break away from home food, but in times like this, they become critical
  • As you can tell, the staple ingredients for their cooking are lamb / goat, onions, potatoes, and carrots, so your traditional meals will revolve around those too. The extensive use of meat and fats were influenced by the need to keep warm in the extreme climate, while the use of vegetables and spices are limited. Even so, if you're vegetarian, I believe your tour could cater for that too. 
  • In the desert, let alone pork, beef and chicken are hard to get. 

In conclusion...

Such was our short and sweet trip to Mongolia. The sights peppered along the barren desert was beautiful. The ger stay, the non-shower experience, the animals, and the people we met; all meshed up into one unforgettable unique experience. I would go to Mongolia again next time to explore the other, greener parts of Mongolia; hopefully with other Central Asian countries too.

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I'm Alice. A learner, which means that I could be anything, really (except a sportsman. A sportsman I am not).

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